I added some custom end-cheeks to the DFAM. This makes for a good weekend project. Quick guide below.
200mm x 150mm aluminium is more than enough for both cheeks. Order 6mm thick. This piece cost me £10. Nice. I used the original cheek as a template: I used a piece of tissue to avoid damaging the original wood
I etched the DFAM shape with a nail. Good enough as a guide for cutting. I cut the alu with a jigsaw. Make sure you use metal blades
When filing the edges, clamp both pieces together in order to have matching pieces
Lots of work on an edge like this. This edge took around 1 hour of filing
Again, lots of filing work required
...and again!!
Filing out the blemishes
Cheeks almost done
Far smoother
3.5mm drill holes. Again, I used the original as a template. PS this part has to be the most accurate
Good trick for polishing the surface of aluminium: fold tinfoil into a ball, dip it in water, and rub across the aluminium. It works great. Just be sure to run in the same direction when polshing
Note I also used silver screws to complement the look.
Order 3.5mm x 16mm. A pack of 25 cost me £2.
DFAM upgrade. Or rather, adding knobs where none existed.
A few folks have contacted me on YouTube regarding the modified knobs on the DFAM.
i.e. as of the above image, and as of the video below:
I'll state later exactly where I sourced the knobs from, but it is worth understanding the why.
Why A Bunch Of Big Knobs on the DFAM?
Very simple, really. They give greater control of pitch.
The greater the diameter, the greater the distance/turn required between each degree on the circumference.
Therefore, pitching notes is easier.
Note that this has a downside: if you are looking to quickly change from low-high pitch, it'll require more effort. Whether having a larger diameter is a positive or negative depends more on what your intended use/outcome is.
There are far more unique options than the customisation I've chose for the DFAM (my primary motivator was practicality (i.e. ease of establishing pitch) - the look was secondary. Not an afterthought - but certainly a secondary thought).
What to Search For?
You've likely searched for knobs etc over the years for your synth/amps/instruments etc.
Search terms probably go along the lines of:
Moog Control Knobs
Synth Knobs
Knobs for Synth
Synth Dials
Guitar Tone Pots
Guitar Control Pots
Guitar Dials
Amp Dials
Amp Buttons
Volume knob for amp
etc etc you get the idea. And from music stores, cost can be relatively high.
You'll find an inexhaustible choice of knobs if you search for what the item (at a technical naming convention) actually is:
Potentiometer Knob.
The dials on the DFAM (on almost every synth) are potentiometer dials (potentiometer shafts, to be specific). Just do a search for potentiometer knobs, and you can narrow in from there.
Look up electronics/components websites and you'll be spoilt for choice.
I purchased the potentiometer knobs from what is probably the best site in the UK for this kind of thing: RS Components.
Here is a direct link to some of the potentiometer knobs you can see on my DFAM unit.
Have a look through the site - there are literally hundreds of knobs available. You could create a totally unique look. But be careful - it is a tech geek's dream!! You may vanish into a vortex for weeks, only to return with sour body odour and a mailbox filled with circuit boards.
DFAM Specifics
The diameter of the potentiometer shafts on the DFAM is 6mm.
6mm for potentiomter knobs would likely work fine (get 6mm if purchasing push-on), but I was looking for knobs with a grub screw as I don't want the knobs to slip position mid-use. The grub screw is tightened directly against the potentiometer.
The ones I've used (6.35mm shaft) are slightly too large in terms of the internal diameter, but the difference isn't too much of a problem.
Not just a plastic insert. And a grub screw for securing. And an indicator line.
Hex-head grub screw. Ideal for securing
On amazon you'll find the likes of 50 6mm potentiometer knobs for £5! Definitely worth a look. I ordered a bag, so I'll write up here how they are. They are push-on, hence I had some doubt & went for screw-on.
Note - be sure to get potentiometer knobs with Indicator Lines, otherwise you won't know what side of 12 o' clock the potentiometer is sitting at!!
Perhaps the best thing about RS components is they include spec sheets for every product (accessible on the product page). Click Hereto access the spec sheet for the knobs I have on the DFAM.
Knob Diameter
The base diameter of my potentiometers is 16.2mm.
Here are some close-up photos to show you how this looks in-situ:
Slightly overhanging the pitch/velocity text
Only ever so slightly over the sequence step numbering
Again, only a slight overhang
As of the captions, you can see the base is slightly covering the lettering. But I didn't consider this a problem/too much of an issue.
20mm would likely be bordering on knobs touching each other. Or you wouldn't fit your fingers between them. Probably the best would be a straight/continual 15mm shaft (rather than a taper).
Attaching the Potentiometer Knobs
If you put the potentiometer directly on the DFAM and lock it down, there's every chance when you turn it you'll scrape the surface of the DFAM.
I'd suggest using small shims when locking down.
A thin piece of card will do the job fine. I used piano shims - simply because I have them lying around from pianos I've destroyed modified/dabbled with over the years:
Small bag of piano shims: felt & paper/card, of varying thicknesses
Note the shims. I used one at either side, and simply pulled them out once the knob was secured. The shims give the necessary clearance to avoid scraping against the Moog surface
Word of Warning
The knobs I used have the grub screw relatively high. It only just bites the potentiometer:
Slight damage to the top of the potentiometer
Be sure to measure up the grub screw height when purchasing.
One other thing worth mentioning is colour choice. When the cheap push-on knobs come through, I'll likely change the VCO & noise knobs (white for noise, and yellow or blue for VCO's). But consider intended use i.e. if playing live, account for stage lighting, as it can drastically alter colours. You may lose colour distinction.
For now I'm using the DFAM in the studio, hence I'm not too bothered RE colours.
Hopefully the above helps DFAM owners & the general synth community. Modification/personalisation certainly has its appeal!!
On RS Components you'll find everything from 5p knobs to silver £15 per unit knobs. If in the US, there are likely 10 times the availablilty/ordering options.
On the Tokyo Expressway. Despite entering one of the busiest areas in one of the world's busiest cities, traffic runs smoother than in the likes of, say, Bolton!! (note the side barriers. These are to shield apartments from noise pollution)
Presently I'm working on a (rather tricky) piano/synth piece that takes part of its inspiration from Koji Sujuki's fantastic 'Ring' series of novels. The other day I revisited 'Spiral'; I had all but forgotten how well Suzuki describes journeying around Tokyo, whether by foot, car, or train.
As downtime from the piano piece, I thought it was time to have some fun again with the Matrixbrute :) And in a decidedly Japanese manner.
This short work was originally going to be titled 'Tokyo Threeway' - as in 'freeway', and in the three-part nature of the recording. Yes, the pun is appalling!! However, part of me is proud of such a terrible pun.
Individual Tracks/"Unbaking the Cake"
As with many in the synth community, I could happily listen to a sequencer part for hours. I'm perfectly content with a good sequence line on its own i.e. no drums/pads/solo etc.
I've uploaded individual tracks for you to have a listen to. I set up a page on Soundcloud (literally set up 5 minutes ago!) - click Here to head over to the page (link opens in new window), where you'll find the individual tracks.
The individual tracks also demonstrate the true analog nature of the Brute. Great to hear them individually. I was going to let the sequence parts run for c.10 minutes, but short & sweet will do just fine.
By all means play with the included - but just for fun ;) Don't go adding one of these parts to a commercial track!!!
On the Japanese front...
I assume anyone reading this specific article is probably a synth/electronics geek. If so, visit Akihabara when in Japan. It's the area famous for maid cafes/manga etc.
Actual buildings. Not a level in Super Mario.
The reason for mentioning this area: here you'll find shops that sell the likes of only connector cables (literally!).
Brilliant.
Or terrible if you're dragging a woman around with you. Leave her at home.
Recording/Mulitracking
OK, you'll see in the vid I'm using my trusted Tascam DR-100.
Connection is with a 2-1, 1/4" stereo - single 3.5mm. Great for running two channels into the one device. Works perfectly.
The cable I'm using is by a company called Nordell. You'll find the cables at a site called 'Dangleberry Music'. Good gear. They also have an ebay shop. If you buy any of their stuff, tell them Kris sent you :)
Unfortunately the specific cable I'm using only comes in a 1.5m length. 3m would be great.
Nordell noiseless lead. Nice wee bit of kit. But guys - double the length of it if you get the chance.
In terms of the sequencer parts: both were recorded separately, then aligned in a DAW. When this was ready, I set up the lead patch and played along with the sequencer parts. Simple & easy enough to do.
All best
Kris
AKB48. They have their own floor (in Akihabara, hence 'AKB' !!), and perform... every day (no joke)
